The International Force in Holstein 1700 – Part 3 More Danish Cavalry

In the previous post on this project I showed the Danish force sent to Holstein in 1700 (see here) the horse element of this army consisted of:

Uniform details can be found in the excellent source Tacitus.nu (well worth bookmarking for a lot of collected information on the Great Northern War, link here). For the Regiment that have missing information I went for Red facing colours (Bernstorffs regiment, but I will probably find that this is wrong when I dig deeper). Further information can be found in the translated version of Torstein Snorrason’s Danish Cavalry Uniforms 1699-1712 (it was available on Dan Schorr’s excellent Northern Wars page that is not longer available on the internet).

The base uniform is mainly a light grey colour with differing facings per regiment, I used the Vallejo Deck tan colour, the models have had Winsor Newton Nutbrown Ink applied to them. There are two bases (9 riders on each) for each of the regiments. As always they look a little bit dark at this stage before the basing as all bases are painted dark (shit) brown.

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As you can see the standards are yet not painted but will be based the illustrations in “The Great Northern War 1700-1721 (Part 2), by Hoglund, Sallnas and Besplow” that contains all but 1 or 2 of the standards we need for these regiments. But that if for next time – it is always a little bit of an undertaking to paint a bath of 162 cavalry in one sitting and I need a little bit of recovery time.

So now I have done a significant part of this project, but there are some Swedish regiments and some of the allied forces left to do a well as Danish Dragoons, artillery and of course all the commanders. But that is for another time.

I also realised that I had the answer to the Holstein-Gottorp uniform details just in front of me in the eminent “Great Nothern War Compendium, Part 1” edited by Stephen L. Kling, Jr. and the “The Great Northern War 1700-1721” (mentioned above). Happy days.

And in other news I got myself a cutting mat, but instead of the traditional dark green I got a light blue (a2 size), it actually gives a lighter, i.e. more lit-up, working environment and it has positively affected my painting experience. Maybe it is just because it is new, but worth considering if you need to replace yours or are considering getting one.

/Anyway I hope that was of some interest

The 6mm Charity Project and Spawn of Speed’s Tour Bus – The Slaying Hawk – Part 1

As I reported in an earlier post the Little One and I wanted to get another Space shuttle for the Stargrave/5 Parsec Stuff (see the earlier post here) so we got the 1/55 scale Moon Bus from the 2001: a Space Odyssey Movie from 1969. It really has a nice retro feel to it.

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It is a nice model but I wanted to give it a little bit of character so I did not go for the clean look of the movie (and I doubt I would do it much justice anyway). So I went with a Silver base coat and then a Sepia Wash all over then some weathering with pledge floor polish and ink and some grime wash.

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The set comes with some characterless pilots and astronauts that I threw away and replaced them with some of the Stargrave plastic miniatures from NorthStar for Pilots and some Rockers and Punks from Fornlorn Hope Games to represent the Spawn of Speed band. I have already have a set of these as shown in the link here.

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I have ordered some LED light as I thought it could be cool and light up the model from the inside and then finally add the windows. I am also going to tried to make some decals for the beer cans.

I really like these kind of diversions going a little bit crazy when you can.

The Charity Project

On another note I think the presentation of the Charity Project last week was a success and we now have kindly been gifted a battle mat by Geek Villian (link here, check out their fantastic range of mats, I have 4 and can more than recommend them) that will be included in the project and I will contact some 6mm terrain producers and ask if they want to help by giving terrain and buildings so the winner of the two armies will get a set of rules, a mat and terrain so they can sit down and start enjoying them from day 1.

Here is a video of the presentation I gave, less my voice over, if you have not seen it and want to know more about this amazing project. 50 painters creating a truly unique set of two fine 6mm armies.

/ Hope that was of some interest

Joy of Six 2021 – Roll a One Links to Youtube

This is a blogpost with a link to my Youtube video for the Joy of Six 2021 Event, 4th July 2021, from 10AM – 4PM GMT+1, if you read this before this time you can go to Baccus 6mm nd just sign-up through the invite (link here https://www.baccus6mm.com/news/29-06-2021/TheJoyofVirtualSix-thisSunday/ ). I will be taking questions about the game from 11.30 to 12.30. If you like the video, please link or perhaps even subscribe to the channel. I might be inspired to do some more.

The link to the organisation dicussed in the video can be found on this blog post Lund 1676 – Ordre de Bataille (OdB) and Ratings for Twilight of the Sun King (WIP) at Virtual Joy of Six 2021.

I will also do a presentation of the Charity Project where more than 50 painters signed up and we ended up with two small armies, it will start at 10.15 (GMT+1) and will include a presentation of the idea, how it worked, the background to the armies we built, pictures of each unit and some action photos.

Below is a link to the presentation, however it will not be made public until after the presentation (at 11.00 GMT+1 on 4th July 2021), so if you miss the presentation you can get it here after the event.

/Hope this is of some interest

Lund 1676 and the Charity Project at Virtual Joy of Six 2021 on 4th July

Follow this link to take you to the Baccus 6mm homepage with a link for signing you up on the discord server so that you can attend the Joy of Six event!

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I will be presenting my Lund 1676 game at the Joy of Six through a Video that will be released shortly before the event, there will be an opportunity to engage and to ask me questions between 11.30 and 12.30.

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Lund 1676

But before then I will also do a presentation of the Charity Project where more than 50 painters signed up and we ended up with two small armies, it will start at 10.15 (GMT+1) and will include a presentation of the idea, how it worked, the background to the armies we built, pictures of each unit and some action photos.


Hope you can make it,

Here is the high level programme of things going on,

Here are some of the videos already loaded up on the server, it is looking great.

Follow this link to take you to the Baccus 6mm homepage with a link for signing you up on the discord server so that you can attend the Joy of Six event!

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Lund 1676 – Ordre de Bataille (OdB) and Ratings for Twilight of the Sun King (WIP) at Virtual Joy of Six 2021

The following is a companion blog post for the Lund 1676 battle that will be presented at the Virtual Joy of Six 2021 on Sunday 4th July 2021 (starting 10am, UK time, more detail will follow on Baccus.com). It contains the Ordre de Bataille that is used to set up the table and play the game presented, also the unit types and qualities used for the battle. These a specifically for the Sun Kings rules, but I hope you could have some use of these for whatever rules you use. The idea is aggressive Swedish Units but not up to the quality we would expected in the Great Northern war – a lot of the galloping horse (i.e. shock cavalry) are using the tactics but are classed as raw due to lack of experience in the method (with a few exceptions). Similar the Danes used the Caracole and this have been classified as Poor Cavalry but trained (bad tactics but good soldiers). Similar for the infantry but we have assumed all units as trained. The extra morale factor for the Swedes often used in the Great Northern War is not present in this battle. Note that a large number of the Swedish units are classified as small due to the very small numbers of reported men in the battalion or the squadrons.

Note that we used a base width of 30mm and therefore most units where 60mm wide (battalion scale lite, as this does only one battalion and 2 squadrons per units, instead of the normal two battalions and 4 squadrons per base. We used some odd 30mm bases and used these are an additional base for the large units and this base, was taken away when the first morale loss was failed (simulating the additional resilience of the large unit). Also note that the Dutch Sailors have been given the inferior infantry classification, this means that they are always inferior to the normal infantry units in melee and in musketry. As for cavalry the Swedes had 12 guns and the Danes 56 guns, I have given the Swedes 2 gun bases and the Danes 6, perhaps the Swedes only deserve one?

The pride of the Swedish Army now and then, the Life Guard. With traditions dating from 1521, the regiment is one of the oldest military units in the world still in existence, and sees its start when 16 young men from my home county Dalarna were selected to become body guards for Gustav Eriksson as part of the Swedish war of Liberation that would eventually end in Gustav becoming King of Sweden in 1523.

/ Hope that was of some interest, let me know how you have interpreted Lund 1676, and I hope you check out Joy of Six, there will be plenty of 6mm related things to explore.

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Some more Sci-fi and Mutant 1984 stuff

Lots of things going on at the moment but getting in the occasional session and have been doing a fair few things recently.

  • A dropship for the 28mm stuff the Little One and I are doing, and also a really exciting Space Bus on its way.
  • Some clutter for Urban Sci-Fi gaming
  • A few more things for the Mutant 1984 project

Dropship

Following from our two games so far with the Stargrave rules (we showed some pictures from one of the games here), the Little One and I felt the need to get some shuttles of dropship without breaking the bank and we found a nice model from Mantic Games (model here) that seemed to fit the bill – it sells for about £25 but we managed to get one for £20 including postage from Ebay, as usually there are some re-sellers that may sell it to you cheaper than buying directly from Mantic.

I spray painted the model with Silver paint and used a series of washes to get a dark green metal with grime look. The funnies part of it was the last step which was done applying some Flory Models Grime Wash (I bought a few of these washes some time ago and I am really happy with the effect after in essence just dabbing it on with a brush (you can get them from here).

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Really happy how it came out – quick but effective.

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In addition we have order another flyer, a Space Bus from the 2001 movie, in 1/55 scale which hopefully will work (I will report back and let you know). It really works for me.
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Clutter for Urban Sci-Fi Gaming

I had some 3D printed terrain I bought from Sabotag3d a year ago for my Judge Dredd project.

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Put some paint on it this weekend trying to get a little bit of an overall cartoon feel to it all. All metallics are gold or silver base paint with contrast paint on top – I like the effect it gives.

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And of course with a little bit of miniatures and other terrain.

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Mutant 1984

Finally I have had some fun painting some miniatures from Fenris Games for my Mutant 1984 project, as per usual the the nobleman Guss af Edelhus in the forbidden zone in Muskö year 105 has an apperance, he is from Warlord Games.

Jageret Svin – bandit and explorer

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Wolfram Varg and his fellow Hunters, some of the most sought after troubleshooters in the Pyri-Commonwealth

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A Pit Guillotine (well actually a Gug from the Cthulhu Mythons)

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/ Hope that was of some interest, have a good weekend (eventually)

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Some Random 6mm Advice – Part 1

I have been running a little bit of an occasional series on Twitter (@Roll_a_one) giving some more or less profound advice with regards to the 6mm aspect of the hobby from my perspective, you can find these under the #6mm tips and were done in 2019 and 2020. I also asked the Hive Mind for some advice recently and I have used these two sources to write a little bit of a rambling post about some of the insights I have learned from painting 6mm miniatures over the last 15 years or so. They are my own views and your Glorantha may vary! I am passionate about the scale and try to share the love I feel for it as much as possible.

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Thinking about 6mm

If you have never tried painting 6mm why not find a manufacturer and order a small pack and see if it works for you – you might be pleasantly surprised. The models shown below are Bison Riders from Rapier Miniatures, Sci-fi models from Brigade Models, 8th Army infantry from Adler and some SYW Mounted Grenadiers (used as Russians in my GNW games).

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Approach to Painting

I think this summary from Joe about his first experience of painting 6mm is extremely useful for how I think 6mm is best tackled, of course some people are spending a lot of time on detail and there is no problem with that. I tend to do too large projects to be able to spend a lot of time on each little miniatures. Paint an army that looks good from when you stand up or sit back looking at it on the wargames table. The second tweet shows that every now and then you will achieve something that looks really good in detail even if you did not plan it.

Painting your Miniatures

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I did a few painting guides last year, showing “my” method with regards to how I tend to paint, but there are various ways of doing it. Below is a link to an old blog that gives links to the 4 guides I did. Use a good brush with a good point, try to get used using a Size 1 or even 2 for the majority of the painting. A 10/0 is just a waste of time in my opinion, wears out quickly and holds no paint – dip paint dip paint, instead of dip paint along! I use grey with black wash, some prefer black (perhaps drybrushed white), brown or white undercoat. I struggle with white as it is less forgiving than darker undercoats, but with some washed people can achieve some excellent results. As for the colours go a little bit brighter as this will look better from a distance, play with contrasts if you can, it works better than highlights if you do it right.

https://rollaone.com/2020/06/27/painting-guide-4-infantry/

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Finishing off your Miniatures

The first one relates to washing your miniatures or not (this is washing them as part of the painting process, not before your start working on them, which I heard you should but I never do). Some people paint their miniatures nicely and perhaps even do a few highlights and do not bother with a wash. I tend to block paint my miniatures as good as I can, then add Winsor and Newton Nutbrown Ink on top, make sure it does not pool too much and sometimes I add some highlights once it has dried. I find this method being the most efficient balance between a lot of work on detail and limited detail as the wash tends to do a good job and I just love the shine of the Nut. I never varnish my 6mm stuff – perhaps I should?

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Detail when it matters

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Some detail can really pay off and look ok even from a distance, for my Gallic warriors below I just carefully added some blue ink – upfront it does not look very well but from a distance you could image that those are some kind of tattoos. The second tweet show the power of using highlights on bare skin making a hell of difference to the final result. The final tweet is showing how powerful some nicely detailed shields can be. The last one about painting Tartan in 6mm, well actually it is not Tartan at all – the brain will fill in what is difficult to paint.

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Basing is not everything but pretty close

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Some of my Punic Wars Collection

Make sure your basing is consistent and think about how it interfaces with your board/mat, well at least the one you are most likely to use. It is more powerful if the base blends into the playing surface and the army is aligned. All my 6mm stuff is more or less aligned, this includes the terrain – it all comes together.

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Light and Sight

This is really important if you are not able to see properly your painting will suffer. First priority get a good daylight lamp, mine cost about £120 but I do spend a lot of time under it. Second if you are not able to see properly get some magnifying glasses to support you doing the work – I just use my normal glasses and it works fine at the moment.

Some Bonus Tips

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Anyway, I do hope that was of some interest, please provide some tips and advice of your own in the comments.

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Our first outing of Stargrave

The Little One has been excited about trying out the new Stargrave rules (more here) with the crew he built and painted and yesterday we got an opportunity to have a go. Playing a simple mission of grab objectives and get the hell out of there, using his crew with “Big Man Pete” as Captain and “Hard Man Franky” as First Mate. This is just a few pictures from the game and a few comments, not a review or an actual battle report.

Big Man Pete and His Crew of Riff Raffians (these are made from the Crew and Mercenary Sprues from Northstar’s Spacegrave Range, here)

I did a crew based on the North Star plastics just the Little Ones above, but have to admit that they are not yet completed. Instead I enlisted the Galaxy’s best band “Spawn of Speed” for this mission – they are the meanest sounding band in the Galaxy but are known to take the odd job if they like the Rhythm of it, and there is some cash involved. Especially since the authorities have clamped down of their royalties following a series of aggressive and political songs. Led by the Singer, and “Captain”, Lemmy Araya and supported by the meanest Roadie in the Galaxy known as the Silver Machine (First Mate). They travel the galaxy in their Light Cargo Ship – The Slaying Hawk (named after their first album).

The Spawn of Speed (extra points if you can guess from where I borrowed the background art?, miniatures from the Future Warriors Rockers range here).
The Silver Machine (he is of course Mean Machine from the Warlord set “Dredd: Arch Villains of Mega City 1” , here)
And some hired in soldiers for the mission – a Trooper, 2 Sentries and a Sniper.
This the setup we used – a 2′ by 4′ table. This is using two of the Cyberpunk Battle Systems that is quick to set up and take relatively little space storing (more here).
It creates a nice backdrop and breaks up Line of Sight nicely,
The Boy with the Rules

The game itself was fun and led by the Little One, I had only flipped through the rules but he knew them well enough for us to have a good game. I was badly prepared in how my Captain and First Mate powers worked and could have been more clever using those. I had some initial luck in my more aggressive strategy and at one point had 3 of the 5 loot markers but the Little One managed to turn the tides and ended knocking out the whole band and I conceded so I suppose it was a 0-5 loss in the end. We will definitely have a few more games and I encourage anyone to have a go – most of us have some old Sci-fi troopers and characters lying around and what environment you fight in does not really matter as long as there is some terrain features. We might do the next game in a forest or something like that. It has not yet blown or scared me away – so we will see how it feels when I have had a few more games and learned the subtleties of things like powers and the system itself. The Little One is a real fan of the rules. We had a good time which is the first rule or whether a set is fun or not, what follows are a few pictures of the game.

All clear Trooper
Initial probing through the research station
The Sentries managed to suppress the First Mate Frank in the first stage of the game
Making the Loot recover from the Box very tricky
Sniper doing what they do!
That Guy with the grenade launcher caused a lot of trouble during the game
Duel in the Cargo Room, the medic was really doing some great shooting – you can always count on a base player.
Just about a shot from here
Sentries pushing on
Silver Machine getting bruised and the Medic continues doing some fine shooting
Sniper not so confident here, rolled a 1.
Big Man Pete shooting from behind the window.
Captain low on Hits taking cover behind the Sentry – not very heroic!
End Game
That is how you take the Captain Down – a natural 20. The follow-on grenade from the took out the Sentry too and the two Loot Markers where lost and the game too.

/ Hope that was of some interest

Further Explorations with the £3 Doormat -Yellow Fields

Last week I wrote about some fields I am doing using £3 doormats from B&Q (link to that blogpost here). The idea is to create something that look reasonable on your wargames table relatively quickly and I think cost efficiently. The approach presented in the original blogpost how to make the type of field shown below, and it is worth checking that out before you read this one.

The Field Produced last time (see here)

Now this will allow me to produce a number of Green fields, depending on what flock/scatter I am using. The brown areas between the furrows works really well.

However I have been thinking about yellow fields that typically have a different look and feel to them. the contrast between brown and yellow would not be ideal. I would not even try it. Instead a typical “yellow” field tends to be more dense, i.e. furrows can not been seen just hinted and there is sometimes a green shine through (not that you could also do a more dense green field with this approach too).

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I have used yellow pieces of fur, fleece etc but I did not really get a result I was happy with. Now with the door mat approach I realised that it would be relatively simple to do something that at least felt like the field above rather than a shit-brown surface with some strings of mustard.

I ended up with something looking like this.

Anyway here are steps from Doormat to Yellow Field

What you need is

  • A structured door mat (as described in the previous blog, ok last link here)
  • Rough brushes
  • Green paint
  • PVA glue
  • And finally a bag of scatter/flock – needs to be relatively fine like fine turf / sawdust etc. I have ordered a fair few “yellow” varieties and have found that with regards to colour and overall look the Busch 7054 is really my recommendation. You can get a bag from £2 from railway modelling companies. Just search for “Busch 7054”. A bag should last for say 2 of these fields.

The Steps (the best thing would be to do over several days – day 1 (Step 1), day 2 (step 2), day 3 (steps 3,4,5) and finally day 3 (Step 6).

  1. Brown it up – let it dry
  2. Green it up – let it dry
  3. PVA It – do it in stages half the mat 3,4,5 then the rest 3,4,5
  4. Spread
  5. Shake – after this is done for the whole mat let it dry properly overnight
  6. Seal – let it dry (as this is very wet it will take a while to dry)

Shit Brown it

First I painted the mat in a dark brown mixed with PVA and let it dry, this serves to give some strength to the structure.

Green it up

This is really a rough wet brush, you want to have a strong green here, just a little brown coming through (you might be able to skip the brown and just start here).

PVA it

Now last time we applied with finesse, I am using 2 parts PVA and 1 part water mixed and just brushing it on. I did about half the mat before I went on to the next step then covered the other part with PVA. Remember to cover all of the mat not just the furrows.

Spread

Then just cover the mat with your flock

Shake

Shake off the excess

Seal

This is really important, dilluted PVA sprayed over the mat

The finished mat, there is a little hint of green shining through and alos we can see the lines, albeit faint.

Here is one I did without allow the green paint to dry before I added the PVA and the flock, it created a more Green shinethrough (this is a little bit more experimental and tempramental and I let you explore this yourself, remember you could “repair” this with a yellow spray can if it goes too green).

And one I did using Woodland Scenics Yellow Grass

I hope this one and the last blog (see links above) gives you an idea on what you can do with this kind of mat.

I have done 5 of them so far – it should be enough to cover a normal wargames table and give that illusion of different crops and fields, with the cost of the mat, then paint, pva and scatter say a total cost of £5 per mat. That is a good deal and really not a very difficult project to do. You can then cut them into the sizes you need and perhaps add some further edge detailing etc. I will show in a later blog post how I will use the mats for my table.

/Hope that was of some interest, have fun…

Fantasy Ice hockey – The Lizards of the Coast

I felt I needed a sixth team for the Fantasy Icehockey project, having so far dwarves, rats, orcs, skeletons and humans. More about this the previous work here.

As I have run out of available teams I, just as for the human team, had to find a fantasy football team to convert, adding sticks and skates. I found the team below on ebay – they are printed STL model and come on the typical 3D print resin with a consistency of a Brighton Rock (hard sugar candy) which makes conversions different than say plastic or metal. The team has two types of lizards and I kept the bigger ones on the sides as I might do another team with them later, or do a few star players for this team.

I cut off hands, modified and repostioned added some sticks and skates and filled or added detail with green stuff where needed. As you can see this is pretty brutal and lacks finesse (skill) but works out for getting them done and the idea that they are hockey players on ice and not football players. Not sure how good the Lizard are in a cold environment but I speculate that they have a big fire in their box where they sit and heat up when on the bench or something like that.

The sticks and the skates are made from coffee stirers
Not sure how comfortable those skates would be but since they do not have shoes I was thinking to add shoes to them but then thought about some kind of beach sandal type of skates – well it is Fantasy so why not. These guys are not very well protected but their game is based on skill and good skating, the tail allows additional tricks to be carried out – a stinging attack whilst still maintaining control of the puck as giving bonus to balance/skating checks.
I painted them in a bright green (Vallejo Game Colour – Livery Green 72.033) with a darker green wash, some deep red and bronze. I think it works well overall.
They are a fun addition to the overall set – six teams that is enough for a tournament!

/ Hope that was of some interest, have a good week.