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Some Random 6mm Advice – Part 1

I have been running a little bit of an occasional series on Twitter (@Roll_a_one) giving some more or less profound advice with regards to the 6mm aspect of the hobby from my perspective, you can find these under the #6mm tips and were done in 2019 and 2020. I also asked the Hive Mind for some advice recently and I have used these two sources to write a little bit of a rambling post about some of the insights I have learned from painting 6mm miniatures over the last 15 years or so. They are my own views and your Glorantha may vary! I am passionate about the scale and try to share the love I feel for it as much as possible.

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Thinking about 6mm

If you have never tried painting 6mm why not find a manufacturer and order a small pack and see if it works for you – you might be pleasantly surprised. The models shown below are Bison Riders from Rapier Miniatures, Sci-fi models from Brigade Models, 8th Army infantry from Adler and some SYW Mounted Grenadiers (used as Russians in my GNW games).

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Approach to Painting

I think this summary from Joe about his first experience of painting 6mm is extremely useful for how I think 6mm is best tackled, of course some people are spending a lot of time on detail and there is no problem with that. I tend to do too large projects to be able to spend a lot of time on each little miniatures. Paint an army that looks good from when you stand up or sit back looking at it on the wargames table. The second tweet shows that every now and then you will achieve something that looks really good in detail even if you did not plan it.

Painting your Miniatures

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I did a few painting guides last year, showing “my” method with regards to how I tend to paint, but there are various ways of doing it. Below is a link to an old blog that gives links to the 4 guides I did. Use a good brush with a good point, try to get used using a Size 1 or even 2 for the majority of the painting. A 10/0 is just a waste of time in my opinion, wears out quickly and holds no paint – dip paint dip paint, instead of dip paint along! I use grey with black wash, some prefer black (perhaps drybrushed white), brown or white undercoat. I struggle with white as it is less forgiving than darker undercoats, but with some washed people can achieve some excellent results. As for the colours go a little bit brighter as this will look better from a distance, play with contrasts if you can, it works better than highlights if you do it right.

https://rollaone.com/2020/06/27/painting-guide-4-infantry/

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Finishing off your Miniatures

The first one relates to washing your miniatures or not (this is washing them as part of the painting process, not before your start working on them, which I heard you should but I never do). Some people paint their miniatures nicely and perhaps even do a few highlights and do not bother with a wash. I tend to block paint my miniatures as good as I can, then add Winsor and Newton Nutbrown Ink on top, make sure it does not pool too much and sometimes I add some highlights once it has dried. I find this method being the most efficient balance between a lot of work on detail and limited detail as the wash tends to do a good job and I just love the shine of the Nut. I never varnish my 6mm stuff – perhaps I should?

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Detail when it matters

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Some detail can really pay off and look ok even from a distance, for my Gallic warriors below I just carefully added some blue ink – upfront it does not look very well but from a distance you could image that those are some kind of tattoos. The second tweet show the power of using highlights on bare skin making a hell of difference to the final result. The final tweet is showing how powerful some nicely detailed shields can be. The last one about painting Tartan in 6mm, well actually it is not Tartan at all – the brain will fill in what is difficult to paint.

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Basing is not everything but pretty close

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Some of my Punic Wars Collection

Make sure your basing is consistent and think about how it interfaces with your board/mat, well at least the one you are most likely to use. It is more powerful if the base blends into the playing surface and the army is aligned. All my 6mm stuff is more or less aligned, this includes the terrain – it all comes together.

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Light and Sight

This is really important if you are not able to see properly your painting will suffer. First priority get a good daylight lamp, mine cost about £120 but I do spend a lot of time under it. Second if you are not able to see properly get some magnifying glasses to support you doing the work – I just use my normal glasses and it works fine at the moment.

Some Bonus Tips

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Anyway, I do hope that was of some interest, please provide some tips and advice of your own in the comments.

Rebasing an 6mm Army and another Nightmarish model from Fenris Games

I was flashed a Republican Roman army by Ebay the other day, it looked well painted and there were a lot of miniatures for the £65 asked for including postage, with a mixture of Baccus and Rapier models. Doing a quick calculation I found the metal value was about £62 if the models would have been bought from Baccus and Rapier, the models were really well painted.

Well for the cost of bare metal and the models already base painted I thought it might be quicker to remove the figures from the bases, add some details and rebase them in my own style and base style – I have based all my ancients on 50 by 20mm bases (based on some Command and Colors stuff I have done). Before you do this it could be worth asking the seller how they based the figures – if they based the modes with sand and pva, it is relatively easy to do this (even if they superglued the models first), if a form of filler were used it is still ok but messier and finally if a superglue was used for both attaching the figures and to bind the sand – I would probably give it a pass. These were glued on then based with PVA and Sand – piece of cake.

The Army as delivered, nothing wrong with it!

Here is the steps I took.

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Let it all soak in some water
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After this I scraped off all the grass, sand and pva (I used a hobby knife, see below).
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It creates an interesting mess
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Then I removed the miniatures with the following tools
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All lining up nicely
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Then I added details to the shields, you will spot a few I forgot
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Then I rebased them in my own style.
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And here mixing them up with the other part of the collection
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A mixture of the new and the old,
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This is why I do 6mm!
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These are old, but who does not like some Elephants?

In total it took me a few sessions, about 9 hours to rebase all the miniatures (including doing the shields and a few more highlights) – I would not have been able to paint the bare lead and base up nowhere near this amount, so it was well worth it and fun. With addition of detail and uniform details it is difficult to see any difference between the models I have painted from scratch and the ones I have rebased.

It is messy and I suppose if the basing has been done with superglue and sand it may be tricky to deal with, but otherwise perfectly ok. I managed to increased the size of my Romans significantly to match my Carthagians very quickly.

In other news

In other news I have enjoyed painting another excellent model I got from Fenris Games – it is called the Dweller in the Ruins and can be bought here in the UK and from Barbaric Splendor, here, in the US. It did not take long and it is an absolute master sculpt – I think a more skilled painter than I could do something really remarkable with the model, but I am more than happy with this result.

/ Hope that was of some interest

Fenris Games, Mutant 1984 Landsknects, Star Grave and 5 Parsecs from Home

I entered Fenris Games #Paintalloween in September last year. This is an annual thing that Ian runs with a few categories painting Fenris Games stuff, with the winners of each getting a £50 to spend on his products. I entered with my Death Dealer that in essence was a black painted model with some grey and Silver detailing, and some generous helpings of red and mainly yellow wash, I wanted to create the effect of a demonic knight riding on his supernatural stead through this lava landscape with the reflections from the lava on the horse. It was, like a lot of my stuff, a little bit of a trial and error and in the end it kind of worked from a distance, so take a step back and have another look at the picture below. The model is depicting the Death Dealer and is based on the famous 1973 paiting by Frazetta with the same name – more here. You make also recall it from the cover of the excellent album by Molly Hatchet in 1978.

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I was lucky and landed a £50 gift card that I put to good use and bought a few things (with a little bit of a top up, they have a lot of really beautiful stuff) – by the way here is the link to the Shop. Go and have a look at what they have – there is so much to explore.

The key miniature I got was a model of the the Cthulhu monster Atlach-Nacha, described by Clark Ashton Smith in his Bood, The Seven Geases in 1934

The dark form ran toward him with incredible swiftness. When it came near he saw that there was a kind of face on the squat ebon body, low down amid the several-jointed legs. The face peered up with a weird expression of doubt and inquiry; and terror crawled through the veins of the bold huntsman as he met the small, crafty eyes that were circled about with hair

You can read more about Atlach-Nacha here.

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The model is big, the heads you can see on the head are in 28mm scale. And needs to be assembles, which is easy with some green stuff (or putty) and some super glue. I end to get all together, like here, then wait a while and go over it with a scalpel and file afterwards.
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I applied some contrast colour (yes I bought a fair few bottles that I have not utilised a lot, but they are brilliant for doing this kind of work on bigger models and quick.

Then I just filled in the details gave it a few washes and became really happy with the results, it is a fantastic model. I would love to see what a more accomplished painter would do with it.

With the Call of Cthulhu Rulebook as a background.

In other news, I recently found a sprue I must have got for free in a magazine with six Landsknechts, that I thought I could something fun with for the Mutant 1984 project.

I believe they were from this set (from Warlord Games)

So in usual style we need to do some headswaps with the fantastic critter heads from Sally 4th (link here) – there is fair amount of different heads for all your headswapping needs!

Assembled and ready for the splash!

This will be a an elite body guard unit to one of the big trading house – the rainbow team.

Star Grave and 5 Parsecs from Home

There is a Nick Starter currently running for the new Frost Grave variant in Space – Star Grave, there is about 2 week left when I am issuing this blog.

For me I just needed to see these two pictures (the first from the Mercenary Set and the Second from the Crew set) and I am in at least buying the figures, because these are perfect for the Mutant 1984 project. (look at those heads). You can check out the Nick Starter here. I just got all the plastic models without the rulebook which still comes with the bonus items.

In addition you should really check out another pre-order set and this is the new edition of Five Parsecs from Home that you can pre-order now (with immediate downloadable PDF copy) for delivery in May this year, same time as Star Grave. Well you will need the same miniatures for both so why not get both sets. I have bought the Five Parsecs book and will only get the Star Grave miniatures (You can check out his game and pre-order the book here).

I have played the earlier edition of FPFH and really enjoyed it. I have got the Little One reasonably interested so we may take this for a spin at some point in the future.

Anyway, always a good Mutant 1984 angle to be found.

/Hope that was of some interest

Neo Men for Mutant 1984, or an excuse to get some Ork (Cow)boys on the table

In the Swedish gaming magazine Sinkadus no 11 (1988) a new potential player character option was presented for the Mutant Post-apocalyptic RPG, the Neo Man (Note: technically for the Mutant 2 iteration from 1986 – the one that added the characteristics of Perception and Education, introduced a segment based combat system, similar to Runequest’s strike ranks but continuous, introduced hit locations and a much more sophisticated skill system), the Neo Men.

The Neo Men were originally the product of biologically manipulating humans to become bigger and stronger to become an asset of the military as a criminal punishment, during the 21st century. The manipulation also affected their personalities and intelligence significantly in a detrimental sense. Following the catastrophe a lot of them survived the harsh reality and due to their resilience and created societies.

Extract from the Article on Neo Men – Sinkadus no 11 (1988).

The Neo Men, through natural selection, tends to be a little bit smarter than orginally but still much lower than the other types (2D6+2 compared to 2D6+6 for mutants and 2D6+8 for mutans) , but their societies has long ago been eroded due to the rise of the human and mutant societies. They tend to form part of the under class when they live in “normal” society. In a way they could be seen as the equivalent of the Neanderthals in our world and perhaps as Orcs in other worlds (but perhaps more timid).

During lock-down I bought a set of Cowboy Orcs (why not!) and I thought this could represent a gang of Neo Men, perhaps of the smarter type! I also wanted to make their skin pink and reddish, a little bit like muscles on one of those educational posters (because it used to scare the s**t of me when I was little). This is a little bit different than the more greyish looks proposed in the original article.

I bought them on ebay from Miniature Men, seller is called miniaturemen07. I might have bought a few more… but that is for another time.

Anyway, here they are…. (they were originally seven, but I seem to have lost one).

They are nice and bulky compared to normal sized 28mm, but then the Siz of a Neo Man is 2D6+20 compared to the normal 2D6+6!.

/ Hope that was of some interest…

Featured

The International Force in Holstein 1700, a new 6mm GNW project

See the source image

One of the first actions of the Great Northern War was the move by Danmark into Holstein-Gottorp, that was an ally and also bound dynastically to Sweden. Hedwig Eleonora of Holstein-Gottorp was the Queen Consort of Sweden, she was married to Charles X of Sweden from 1654 to 1660, then from his death 1660 served as Regent from to 1672, when her son Charles XI (of Scanian War fame) was an adult and again during the short time from Charles XI’s death to the time Charles XII assumed power at the age of 15. Later on she would be representing the Swedish Kingdom at home in Stockholm during Charles XII campaigns during the Great Northern War.

Hedwig Eleonora of Holstein-Gottorp, the de facto first lady of the Swedish Royal Court for 61 years, from 1654 her death in 1715. You can read more about her here.

The Danes laid Siege to the town of Tönning in 1700 but it was lifted following the deployment of the Swedish Army in front of Copenhagen that resulted in the Travendal Peace treaty in August 1700. Later in the war the town of Tönning would be besieged again but with a different outcome, but that is another (hi)story.

Tönning

During this time an International Force was sent to Holstein-Gottorp to aid the Duchy consisting of elements of the Schleswig-Holstein Gottorp Army with some Swedish Mercenary regiments, United Provinces (Dutch), the Hanoverians (Duchy of Luneburg-Celle and Duchy of Hanover-Calenburg) and a small Swedish Army under the Command of General Gyllenstierna.

It is this force I would like to do for my 6mm Great Northern War Collection, although no action really happened I would like to do a “what if” of a major field battle as this offers an interesting mix of units, commanders and also the possibility of potential support from the Saxons to the Danish side. I did a similar what-if with goof friend Nick Dorrell for the Battle of Horka 1708 at Joy of Six in 2018 (see more here).

So what are the details of this force? Well, Nick has done a tremendous job in presenting this information, see more here which is reproduced in a summary form below (with some additional information from my own notes and research). I will need to do some further research on the actual composition of the Danish force that invaded later.

Bases Needed for the Project

Basically I would need to do the following for this project:

Schleswig-Holstein Gottorp (9 infantry bases, 1 horse base, 3 dragoon bases)

Available Commanders – The Duke of Schleswig-Holstein Gottorp (Monarch)

9 infantry battalions – The Ducal Life Guard Regiment (2 btns), Christian-August (1 btn), Bautzen (1 btn) and Von Barner (Hecules, 1 btn), and then the Swedish Mercenary regiments: Wismar Garrison (1 btn), Stade Garrison (1 btn) and Wismar Governor (2 btns)

1 hourse regiment (not counting the small trabant unit) – Von Osten (1 base)

2 Dragoon Regiments – Dragoon Guards (1 base) and Baudisson Dragon Regiment (2 bases)

The Dutch (4 infantry bases, 3 horse bases, 2 dragoon bases)

Available Commanders – Anthoni Gunther, Prinze of von Holstein-Beck and Colonel Daniel van Dopf

4 Infantry battalions – Holstein-Beck’s Foot, Weller’s Foot, Keppel’s Foot and Capol’s Swiss Foot, each being represented by one 60 by 30mm base of infantry (as there were somewhere between 500 and 700 strong each). The Holstein-Beck Foot will be modelled with pikes based on Nick’s comments. I found the full names of the Colonels for 3 of these – Anthoni Gunther, Prinze of von Holstein-Beck, Hercule de Capol and Johan Rabo von Keppel.

3 Horse Regiments – Albermarle’s Carabiniers (Arnold Joust, Baron van Keppel, 1st Earl of Albermarle), Ostfriesland’s (Colonel Fredric Ulrich, Graaf von Oost- Friesland) and Aughrim’s Horse (Colonel Frederik Christian von Reede – Baron Aughrim). I normal model every 2 squadrons per base, in this case there were 3 squadrons for Albermarle and 1 squadon for the others. I will simplify this to three bases of each – it is a compromise I can live with.

1 Dragoon Regiments, – Colonel Daniel Wolf van Dopf’s Dragoons were also part of the force and these will be represented by 2 bases.

Duchy of Luneburg-Celle (7 infantry bases, 2 horse bases, 4 bases of Dragoons)

Available Commanders: Duke George William (Monarch) and General-Feldzeugmeister Marquis de Boisdavid

7 infantry battalions – Oberst La Motte (2 btns), Generalmajor de Luc (2 btns) and the rest with 1 battalion each for Generalleutnant Graf Detlef von Rantzau, Oberst Mally de Charles and Generalmajor Barthold Hartwig von Bernstorffs.

2 horse regiments (1 base each) – General-Feldzeugmeister Marquis de Boisdavid and Brigadier de la Croix de Frechapple.

2 Dragoon regiments (2 bases each) – Oberst von Villers and Reichsgraf Friedrich Johann von Bothmer

Duchy of Hanover-Calenburg (5 infantry bases, 7 horse bases)

Available Commanders: Duke Georg Ludwig (Monarch) and Generalleutnant von Sommerfeld

5 infantry battalions – Garde zu Fuß (Generalleutnant von Sommerfeld, 2 bases), Generalmajor St. Pol des Estanges, Generalmajor d’Herbeville and Oberst von Schlegel.#

4 horse regiments (2 base each except for Garde du Corps with 1 base) – Oberst Ernst Bogislaw von Podewils, Generalmajor von Voigt, Generalmajor Graf de Noyelles and Generalleutnant Christian Ludwig von Wyhe (Garde du Corps).

Sweden (12 infantry bases, 9 bases of “Galloping Horse”)

Available Commander – General Nils Carlsson Gyllenstierna and (TBD – need to review which Senior commanders would have been with these regiments during this time).

12 infantry battalions (or 10) – Skaraborgs (2 btns), Södermanlands (2 btns) , Kronobergs (2 btns) , Östgöta (2 btns) and Riksänkedrottningens Life regiment in Pommern (2 btns) and maybe Jönköpings (2 btn).

Horse and Dragoon (3 bases Galloping Horse each) – Pommerska Horse, Bremiska Horse and Bremiska Dragoons.

Summary 37 infantry bases, 13 horses, 9 Galloping Horse, 9 Dragoon bases = 888 infantry and 279 cavalry

Painting Guides

As for painting guides, I have consulted the following materials (and will improvise where I do not know):

Schleswig-Holstein Gottorp – link here / and “Der Deutsche Staaten I” by Claus-Peter Golberg

The Dutch – “Dutch Army of William III” C.A Sapherson

Duchy of Luneburg-Celle – “Der Deutsche Staaten II” by Claus-Peter Golberg

Duchy of Hanover-Calenburg – “Der Deutsche Staaten II” by Claus-Peter Golberg

Sweden – “The Great Northern War 1700-1721 – Colours and Uniforms” by Höglund & Sallnäs

A little bit of Progress

Good news is that I did two sessions this week painting about half the cavalry I need. I may be able to re-use some of the Swedish units from other projects. You may note that these are the older version of the WSS range from Baccus, but to be honest I think they paint up really good (I have to admit to having a little bit of a lead mountain so this atual project will not require any additional expense).

If you are interested in this or know more about the smaller states I am more than interested to hear more through the comments.

/ Hope that was of some interest, will keep you updated on progress.

Featured

Progress on the Sweden 1943 Project and a new Wargames Podcast

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The mighty Stridsvagn m/42

One of my favourite looking tanks is the Swedish m/42 tank, a domestic tank that was finalised in 1943 and plausable to take some kind of place in a 1943 what-if invasion of Sweden. It did initially have a lot of issues as was not very reliable and I found an interesting article here. I did have one of these in 15mm before but got another two from Shapeways some time ago – I was waiting for an alternative source but I think these are great even if they take you back about £19 each.

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An armoured Truck – Pbil m/31

The second one is a Paul Edwards special (who runs the excellent Sabotag3d company – https://www.sabotag3d.com/). I showed Paul a picture of one and of them and off he went and designed one for me and printed out a fair few, and I have had them lying around for about a year – it was time to put some paint on them. More about this vehicle here.

See the source image
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First one done, note the upgraded 1942 version had a 20mm cannon.
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Countryside touring in Dalarna 1943.
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I made Six because I had Six
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…and a few MC riders as escort
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And a few Swedish Engineering Types

That was all, see you in Dalarna in 1943!

Sorry one more thing, there is a new Podcast that is worth giving a listen and a follow. You may already be familiar with the excellent Yarkshire Gamer blog, Ken has decided to share not just his smooth voice but his passion in Audio, focusing in the grand spectacle stuff, big gaming.

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Part 1 – Episode 1 – World War Roses

Part 2 – Legendary Wargames

Go and try it out.

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Got a 3D Printer – made some ships and tanks

I bought a 3D printer at the end of last year but it stood doing nothing for some time. Work was crazy leading up the Christmas break and during the break I got otherwise engaged. However I recently got it all up and running and how much fun I have had with it.

So far I have printed 1/3000 ships and 1/100 tanks and a lot of 2mm city buildings and walls (but more about that some other time).

Denmark Strait

The first thing I printed was the ships for the Battle of Denmark Strait 1941, where famously HMS Hood was sank by Bismarck.

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HMS Hood, Bismarck, HMS Prince of Wales and Prinz Eugen

These 3d files can be bought from Ghukek’s Miniatures,

The 3 files can be bought from Ghukek’s Miniatures on Wargaming 3d; https://www.wargaming3d.com/vendor/ghukek/

I painted them in grey, gave them a black wash highlighted some of he detail with the same grey and painted the deck details with a light brown. I gave the decks a light wash of brown.

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For the basing and wanted to get a quick results and painted the base in blue then outlined the bow wave in light blue and some streaks around the boat, then when dry some of the Atlantic blue from Vallejo (it is a modelling paste, link here). Let dry and carefully add some white to enforce waves and wake, and here and there. Really happy how they came out.

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We will try these out in battle shortly, I will write about it then. The Little One is reading up on the Naval Thunder Rules.

The second project was some Finnish Tanks, the Sturmi, or StuG to most of the world. I got the file for free at thingyverse, link here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609688/apps – It is not a perfect model but good enough.

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The wait for the print, it takes about 4 hours to print the tanks
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The prints with the supports as they come out of the printers.
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I ended up printing a company worth of these
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Really happy how they came out.

/ Hope that was of some interest, I will write about my experiences of using the printer and reflections later.

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German Assault Boats / Sturmboots – Sweden 1943

One of the scenarios I am envisaging for the “What if”German Invasion of Sweden 1943 project I am working on is a river crossing over the Dalecarlian River (Dalälven) – as it is such a central feature of the county.

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Dalälven / Dalecarlia River
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The high level plans for the two Campaigns I am working on.

I did some rubber boats earlier that you can find in the link ( German Infantry Platoon(s) for the What-if attack of Sweden in 1943 , this link also contains a high-level painting guide I used for the German in this this campaign) but wanted to support this with some boats with engines.

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German Rubber boats from Skytrex Miniatures 15mm scale

The German army used the Leichtes Sturmboot 39 that were small high-powered assuault boats with by an 30 HP “Powered oar” outboard motor, they were used for river and small waterway assaults, crossings and to push pontoon boats. They were mainly used by Engineering typically to form a bridge head to build a pontoon bridge. Below is a small video showing them in use from Youtube.

I made a few improvised boats that I wrote about in an earlier blog for my Continuation War Finns.

https://rollaone.com/2018/08/18/finnish-assault-boats-for-chain-of-command/

Anyway the new ones are based on the actual boats and 3d printed. You can buy the files from 3D wargaming here. You can print out two versions one is an uncovered version (open boat, as can be seen in the video above) I believe the covered versions were used by the Marine. Well in my 1943 campaign they came from some marine units in Norway just before the invasion. I also have some uncovered ones that I will use to “redo” the Finnish ones I showed above. I asked Paul Edwards at Sabotag3d (https://www.sabotag3d.com/) to print them out in 1/100 or 15mm scale.

Picture from the 3D website, these are I suspect 28mm versions

As for the crew I used some Germans from the lead mountain – yes mine is substantial. For the “drivers” I used pointing NCO or artillery models and for the others a selection of different infantry types. As the models are close together pay attention to helmet size as they tend to vary between manufacturers and can look strange next to each other. I cut most of the bases off and also the feet or parts of the legs to make some interesting positions. In reality the were probably less obvious targets when crossing in them but I think you agree that it looks nice and dramatic in the pictures below.

I added a base to them and painted the boats in a dark and light grey, most pictures indicate this type of camouflage pattern being used. I tried to create some effect of water and some foam by painting the bases dark blue, the drybrushed with a medium blue before adding some vallejo Atlantic water effet, finally I paintes some white to represent the foam. Here are the finalised pieces, I am really happy with them.

/Hope that was of some interest

Featured

Infamy! Infamy! Mutant 1984 basic forces done

In a recent blog I set out my idea on how I would use the excellent Too Fat Lardies rules in the Post-Apocalyptic era following the Pyri-Commonwealth Monster Hunters in their role of protecting the civilised parts of world against the marauding wild gangs and monsters in the forbidden zones. You can read more about it in an old blog here.

“Some of you may recall the Pyri-Commonwealth Monster Hunters I have been doing for my warped Mutant 1984 project (based on the first version/incarantion of the Swedish RPG, now known as Mutant Year Zero). Well my take on Infamy!, Infamy! will be to expand my Monster Hunters and detail their exploits in the early days of the Pyri-Commonwealth when they fought for the Emperor against feudal warlords, wild beasts and marauding mutant warbands in the forbidden zones – trying to re-build a lost civilisation.”

I have been working extensively on this project since that orginal post when I had two units of Pyri-Commonwealth Soldiers.

Pyri-Commonwealth Force

Based on the Early Imperial Roman Legion Force in the Infamy! Infamy! Rulebook.

I am fielding this with 4 Groups of Monster Hunters (Legionaries) and 1 group of Auxiliary Archers. Will add some Auxiliary options in the next phase.

4 Monster Hunter Groups and One Group of Auxiliary Archers – a Musician and two Leaders (need to add another one) – sabot bases from Warbases.

Here some pictures of the individal units.

First Group of Monster Hunters – using Warlord Roman Legionary Sprues with some heads from Sally 4th’s critter range
Second Group of Monster Hunters – using Warlord Roman Legionary Sprues with a head from Sally 4th’s critter range. The female head from the kit box, not sure where it comes from.
Third Group of Monster Hunters – using Warlord Roman Legionary Sprues with a head from Sally 4th’s critter range. Bare heads from the kit box, I think the old man’s head is from the Oathmark Dwarves set.
Fourth Group of Monster Hunters – using Warlord Roman Legionary Sprues with heads from Sally 4th’s critter range. Blue head from the Kit box from a rebel saboteur model (Imperial Assault)
Auxiliary Archers from Warlord (Eastern Archers) with two heads from Sally 4th’s critter range.
The Management team, will nee another Junior Leader, note the Imperial Eagle of the Pyri- Commonwealth (YES, I forgot the Static Grass!)

The Laug Gang

This is a Marauding gang causing all kind of problems in the area, the are based on the Gaul list.=, with 2 Groups of Cavalry, one group of Elite Warriors, two groups of warriors and one group of tribal slingers.

The Laug force

In doing the cavalry groups I used Oathmark Wolfriders and then use all kind of things from the different sprues and the kit box. Basically buy some loose sprues and just mix it up (there are some WW2 helmets and more modern hat thrown in there for good measures, as well as the occassional animal head and additional limb). The same approach was used for the other Groups and they are a mixture of basic bodies, arms and heads. I wanted to create a non-uniform look apart for the elite warriors that I painted with a base Jade colour.

First Group of Cavalry
Second Group of Cavalry
Group of Slingers
First Group of Warriors
Second Group of Warriors
The Elite Warriors!
The Management team are some old models from a different era, with some touch ups!

Next I will be working on some additional units and support options. Having fun!

/Omnium optimi! Hope that was of some interest!

Some 2mm bases for playtesting Homunculus Est (now Strength and Honour)

Continuing from the last post where I discussed my first test base of 2mm using miniatures from Irregular Miniatures (see more about this here here).

The first test base

Although I was reasonably happy I learned a few lessons and had a re-think of what I wanted to do, in summary this was.

  • 100mm by 50mm bases
  • Early Imperial Roman formations for the legions
  • Use Matt brown as a base cost and make the bases a little bit greener

Anyway had another batch from Irregular and got into it.

I basically ordered 3 Roman army packs some Partians and Germans, now I am not sure what I used for what but know that for the Legion bases I used early imperial bases, I use 30 per base, which is ten packs and about £3.3 per base if someone is counting. I have ordered enough make some more legion bases and warbands and have done this by ordering individual codes (however with my impressionistic and quick approach it does not really matter that much).
Some of bases have flash on the bottom, you do not want to keep this and need to get rid of it. Wash your hands after you have done it and get rid of the excess carefully, I always use a paper I can fold up and throw.
The legions in triple acies
Six warbands on the top, then a base of light cavalry, two bases of heavy cavalry, two bases of skirmishers and a base on light cavalry.
Sprayed them matt brown
Drubrush with my normal three colour set, light brown, light terracota and a pale yellowish (Straw).
Paint the blocks black
Then I started putting on the details for the warbands and skirmishers, this stage representing shields, I used about 5 different colours in the end, then later painted some brown and bronze on top of the heads to represent a mixture of headgear, I also painted some colours on the back. The whole idea is to get something that looks like something reasonable from a distance like the picture below. It is not really painting more making dots that give an impression for the barbarian type of bases I use a wide variety of colour and for the Roman bases I will go more uniform in terms of colour (as well as formation as you can see on the basing approach).
I then based it with a mixture of some old Javis flock I had, I think it is dark, medium and light green mixture at equal ratio and some additional detail. At about 20-30 minutes per base of painting this is a perfectly achievable project to do in a weekend. This is really the way to look at then as the detail is not really there at least not in the way I have painted them .
Here the warbands on the table and a big shout to Geek Villian who did the brilliant mat (link here) – I got the green grass version (6X4) and I love it. You may be aware that I have made a numerous amount of mats but the flexibility in this kind of light fleece type of mat is fantastic and I really like the colour tone if this one. Go and have a look.
The cavalry from behind
The skirmishers
Here tbey all are on the new wargames mat. Good enough and nice to know that you can do an army in a few sessions.
Next time I will finish the Legions (and make another 3) and the light cavalry bases, do some more war bands and some wagon bases needed to play some of the scenarios, before I crack on with some terrain pieces.

/ Hope that was of some interest